Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time Review

Overall Score: 9.7

Pros: Amazing story, innovative puzzle style, exceptional combat system

Cons: Damn owl, some puzzles too hard

As far as old Nintendo 64 games go, The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time is a masterpiece. It has made numerous “Greatest Games of All Time” lists for a reason; it’s f@#$ing awesome. If you have never heard of The Legend of Zelda, I honestly don’t know why you’re reading this review site. But just in case you’re a f@#$ing cave troll, Link, the chosen one, is destined to save Hyrule and Princess Zelda from the evil Ganadorf once again. The story might sound simple and juvenile, but players find it engaging. It has a degree of complexity that keeps you hooked. The temples are challenging and entertaining, except for the water temple which made me want to pull my hair out because it is too hard. Even side games that would be tedious in some games are interesting in this one. Getting Epona is one of the most fun things you can do in this game. It’s actually hard to find something bad to say about it. Being for the N64, the graphics, compared to today’s, are lacking. Also, because of the inhuman logic, it is very hard to complete without a guide (which you can now find online). And, the worst thing about the game, the owl pissed me off constantly. He tries to trick you into listening to his pointless tips, and you can’t get away or kill him. The game would be immaculate if you could just kill the owl.

Bottom line: This is one of the few games that everyone knows and loves; if you haven’t played it yet, you MUST go out and play it NOW.


GPU Overclocking Guide

Disclaimer: Game and Tech Reviews is NOT responsible for any damage to your components.

So, you’ve bought a really low budget Directx 10 card? Wanna squeeze every last ounce of performance out of it? You bet you do! You are gonna need ATITool to do the overclocking. You can find a download here: http://www.techpowerup.com/atitool/ . Take a moment and get used to the program. nTune can also be used to overclock; and, can be easily accessed by right clicking on the desktop and selecting “NVIDIA Control Panel”, choosing the “Performance” tab, and then by clicking on “View System Information.” This also comes in handy because you can manually turn the stock fan to the desired speed. Check your card stats out with GPU-z available for download here: http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/896/mirrors.php .

So, what exactly are we doing here? Well, a graphic card works using the same basic parts as a CPU does, only it uses different architecture. It has a clock speed for the processor or the core. And a clock speed for the RAM or memory. For the 8600GT, the core comes at 540MHz and the memory comes at 700MHz. By using the sliders on ATITool, I was able to get mine to a very stable 710/750. A higher clock speed is better than a higher memory speed. But, as a general rule of thumb the memory should be equal to or greater than the core frequency. You can use the auto finders to get a general estimate of what your card will do. But, I really recommend you do it manually. Scan for artifacts to test stability, and I also recommend using a 3dMark program. My overclock boosted my score 1000 points. Expect crashes, snow, and a weird screen flashes. Just restart and try again. Don’t be alarmed if it doesn’t start right back up again. This IS normal. Just turn it off, wait a few seconds, and try again. I really recommend you have proper cooling and do NOT exceed temperatures of over 70C. I suggest you invest in some decent cooling if you wanna push it really high. Every card overclocks differently. And, you at some point will hit a wall because of voltage. There are other guides out there, but they require soldering a resistor on to your card and/or shading in parts with a pencil. I chose not a write a guide on this because its way to risky and plus it would void my lovely warranty. And, I can’t afford to not be eligible for the “Step up” plan.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Portal Review

December 20, 2007

Portal Review
Overall Score: 9.6
Pros: Innovative puzzle playing, short and sweet
Cons: Limited plot, moaarrrr maps please?
Portal, originally developed by Valve as a bonus game for the Orange Box, has developed into a huge pop-culture phenomenon. The gaming world is humming with talk of the Orange Box and, as a surprise to Valve, much of it deals with Portal. It has even spawned a flash game created independently from Valve. It can be found here: http://www.newgrounds.com/portal/view/404612. And while it pales in comparison to the real thing, it operates on the same premise… and well..it’s free (sorry Valve). The plot of Portal is very simple. You are a test subject in an Aperture Science laboratory; and, you must complete a series of puzzles using a specialized gun that creates portals. Each level presents a new set of challenges. You must manipulate space-time by creating portals to get you to the end of the level. The catch is only some surfaces are conducive to portals. And, you must use a “Companion Cube” to press down strategically placed buttons which trigger doors that stand in your way. This game requires a keen mind and ingenuity to navigate through out all 18 levels. GLaDoS, the head of research at the factory, helps you through your first few levels and provides some comic relief. Let me just scream this, “Watch the end credits!” Sliding in at just over 4 hours for one play through Portal is short and sweet. The game offers some “bonus maps” once you beat the game. But, you can’t help but feel ripped off. Valve just has taken the same maps and altered them slightly making them harder by adding water, fewer boxes, timers, etc.
Bottomline: Simply a must play. You can NOT afford to pass up this game. At least play the flash game. It truly is mind bending.

Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme Review

Overall Score: 9.8/10

Pros: Compatible with almost every socket used today, great performance, reasonably priced, quiet

Cons: Not made of copper


The Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme (TRUE) is the best heat sink available on the market. If you are into overclocking, and don’t feel comfortable with water cooling, then the TRUE will widen your overclocking range tremendously. I was able to get a Q6600 to 3.6Ghz with this heat sink and fan(HSF). The installation is incredibly simple. I chose to purchase an addition 120mm fan to attach to the side of the TRUE. This thing has so many fins when you look at it you say to yourself, “there is no way that’s gonna fit in my case.” Well, it does….barely. There’s about a half inch clearance in regular ATX mid size cases. It comes with a nickel plated base and aluminum fins. I would have liked to see the whole thing made out of copper at least the base… But, the aluminum does the job well enough.

Bottomline: The best HSF you can buy in today’s market.



My Setup

December 15, 2007

I thought I’d post my setup so everyone can see where I do my gaming/testing.

Case: Antec 900

CPU: Q6600 OC’ed to 3.3Ghz

HSF: Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme

Motherboard: Asus P5k-E

Graphics Card: 8600GT Oc’ed to 705/902

RAM: 2 x 1GB Crucial Ballistix OC’ed to 4-4-4-12

Monitor: 20″ HP w2007

PSU: 520W Corsair HX

HDD’s: Main – 250GB WD 7200rpm

Secondary- External 150GB MyBook

This i just here as a reference for when I discuss graphics and frame rates in PC game reviews.

World in Conflict Review

December 15, 2007

World in Conflict Review



Overall: 9.1/10


Pros: Great Story, Directx 10, solid controls, outstanding multi-player


Cons: Shady AI movement, repetitive responses from NPC’s, story seemed a little short


World in Conflict(WiC) throws your right in to World War III; but, don’t start judging it right away. Sure, that’s a cliche genre for a video game. However, WiC has put a new spin on the story. It’s 1989, and instead of ending the cold war the Russians have invaded Seattle and started wreaking havoc on U.S. soil. It’s your job to fight them off to save the United States from the iron fist of communism. The control are basically the same in any type of RTS. You have several different types of vehicles, infantry, and air crafts each with its own special attacks. The developers made a smart move here and didn’t make any radical changes in controls. Therefore, the learning curve for WiC is very shallow. Anyone who has ever played an RTS will feel right at home. One of my biggest gripes is that whenever you click on a new unit it identifies itself. Now, that’s not a big deal, but I wanted to throw my mouse through the screen if I heard “Need a number 2 now!?” one more time. Also, when directing units, they seem to take the longest possible route to get to the destination, and they often get crammed up on one another in front of building, trees, and mountains. There are two different way to have the units move, but toggling this seems to yield the same results. Where WiC lacks in mediocre AI, it makes up in an action packed story. Each mission has a purpose, and there are very few missions with annoying time limits.  Missions mainly consist of destroying strategic points, occupying and holding positions, and of course killing commies. The story feels a little short at about 6-8 hrs, however, there’s no limit to how many hours you can log in online multi-player. Bottomline, if you are looking for a kick-ass/take names RTS title, pick up WiC now.



Crucial Ballistix Review


Overall Rating: 8.5/10


Pros: Outstanding Price, Great for overclockers, Very stable

Cons: Poor rebate, poor customer service, not as high quality as Corsair or OCZ

This RAM is rock solid on my Asus P5K-E motherboard. This RAM is a steal. Grea, high performance RAM for under a hundred bucks…it’s a budget builder’s dream. There’s not much to say about this RAM other than its easy to overclock and extremely stable in the stress tests I’ve run. My only complaint is that the frequency isn’t as high, and the heat spreaders aren’t as high a quality as you would get paying for OCZ or Corsair. But, this RAM makes up for it by being extremely low priced. Crucial seems to be very picky about rebates, so, make sure to do them correctly and as soon as possible.




DISCLAIMER: Game and Tech Reviews is not responsible for any damage you do to your CPU or other components.

In this tutorial, I will walk you through the over clocking process on a Asus P5K-E motherboard. First, you are going to need several programs to record temperatures, monitor your processes, and stress test. You are going to need coretemp to monitor your….well… core temperatures. A download can be found here: http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/ . You are also going to need CPU-Z to list all the different settings found on your processor and RAM. Download link: http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php . Finally, to test system stability you will need Prime95 v25: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Prime95_d4363.html .

A very important note: Make sure you have proper cooling. Stock cooling will probably not cut it. The T-Junction on the Q6600 (G0) is 100C. The T-junction is the maximum temperature at the junction between the processor die and the PCB it sits on. I recommend you don’t press past 75C. It will shut down to avoid damage, but it is best not to push it. I have a Thermalright 120 Extreme. That is one of the best heat sinks available right now. You will need proper cooling to over clock your CPU. Over clocking is a trial and error process. You will probably crash a couple of times. After a crash your computer might not restart right away. THIS IS NORMAL. Turn off your PSU, wait about 15-30 seconds and try again. Different CPU’s over clock differently. If you haven’t already done so make sure your chip is a G0 revision by looking at CPU-Z. This revision runs cooler and over clocks better. Your results will probably differ from mine. This is a very basic tutorial, and is written for those with very limited computer knowledge, so, vcore, North Bridge, and RAM voltages will not be altered. They will all remain on auto. This reduces the chances of damaging your precious new system.

Let’s start with a run down of all the terms you are going to need to know. Here is a very simple diagram of how the computer works: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/98/Motherboard_diagram.png It is very important to understand how the computer works before you begin to tamper with it.

BIOS – Basic Input Output System- This preps all of your system components and runs tests to make sure everything is functioning properly.

CPU (Central Processing Unit) – If you don’t know what this is you probably shouldn’t be over clocking in the first place. But, if you want to continue, the CPU handles all the data. Literally every shred of information is passed through this chip. Basically it just does a whole bunch of math.

FSB (Front Side Bus) – This relays information from the CPU and the north bridge.

Clock Multiplier– Basically this allows the CPU to run at a higher speed/frequency than the North Bridge and FSB. The CPU speed is found my multiplying the FSB with the clock multiplier. For example: 9 x 333= 299.7

Let’s Go!

Restart your computer and hit delete during the first few seconds. This will bring you to the BIOS.

Use your keyboard to select the “Advanced” tab on the top. You will see a whole bunch of different settings; and, this is intimidating at first.

Switch the Ai Overclocking to manual. This begins the trail and error. The higher the FSB the higher the performance. So, drop your Ratio CMOS Setting (multiplier) to 7; and, try 475 for your FSB frequency. If, it doesn’t boot or it’s not stable in a stress test lower it by increments of 5. I found mine was stable at 7 x 470 which gives me 3.29. Not bad for no voltage increases. It runs at about 57C under load and 30C idle. Remember, idle temperature mean next to nothing. Load temperature is what matters. Your results WILL vary. You may find that your FSB is stable at 480. That’s great. Just always remember TEST STABILITY. Run small FFT’s and then Large FFT’s. I recommend doing stress tests of 5 hrs minimum. Prime95 is your stress test application, and you should see 4 instances of it running: 1 for each core. Remember to watch your temperatures during testing. They should not exceed 70C.

(For those of you wondering why your CPU-Z reads a low clock speed. It’s because your CPU isn’t under stress, and you have C1E enabled on the CPU Configuration menu. This drops down you multiplier to x6 to save power during times of low CPU usage.)


Antec 900 Review

December 7, 2007

Antec 900 Review

Overall Rating: 9/10

Pros: Outstanding cooling, roomy interior, sexy black finish with LED lights

Cons: No removable motherboard tray, fans are pretty loud at medium and max, dust magnet

Antec might have made the ultimate air cooling case.  At a glance you immediately notice the HUGE 200mm fan that dominates the top of this case.  Next, your eyes are drawn to the large perforated front bezel spaning 9 drive bays and shows off two more 120mm fans.  To round it all up the clear side shows off an additional rear 120mm fan.  Let me just say that with all these fans cranked up to max, this sucker is loud.  There are two things that make the Antec 900 stand out from other so callec “gamer cases.”  First of all, the clearside panel has a perforated aluminum cut out (you can mount another 120mm fan if you must) to allow more air to the CPU.  This is great for overclockers and gamers alike.  Who wants a BSOD in the middle of an intense shoot out in Crysis?  Second, the power supply mounts at the bottom of the case.  This unconventional approach allows for the laws of physics and thermodynamics to go to work.  If you remember from your high school physics class, heat rises.  Mounting the PSU on the bottom of the case allows all of the heat to rise and be sucked out by the massive 200mm fan.  Even if you want a water cooling set up, Antec has accounted for this and cut two holes in the back of the case for your tubing set up.  The tray on the top is very convenient for storing mp3 players, digital cameras, and other peripherals.  Once this thing is up and running, it looks fierce with a flat black finish and blue LED light bleeding from almost everyon opening.    Moving onto the inside of the case.  One of my biggest problems with this case, is that it does not have a removeable motherboard tray.  Not a huge deal, but definitely inconvenient.  All the drive bays feel very sturdy, and the extra slots for fans are sure to keep your graphics card and hard drives cool.  Overall, this case doesn’t disappoint.

Guide To Ripping And Converting DVD’s 

Programs Needed (All Freeware): AutoGK, DVD Shrink, and Videora iPod converter


PART 1 – DVD Shrink:

Download Link: http://www.softpedia.com/progDownload/DVD-Shrink-Download-4128.html

 Place the DVD you want to rip in your DVD-ROM or DVD-RAM.  Open upDVD Shrink and select the Re-author tab on the top.   


 Drag and drop the file located under the Main Movie tab.   


 Go to the Compression Setting tab and deselect every Audio except the one you need.  Make sure you deselect the sub pictures too.  Go to the compression tab and select no compression.  This will give you the full quality of the DVD.  I recommend you don’t start compressing until after AutoGK.   


 Click Backup! on the top bar and disregard the warning message.  Since we are going to compress it later it doesn’t matter. 


 Select your output folder, and make sure under DVD Region, Region Free is selected. 


 It will begin encoding and look like this.  You can deselect Enable Video Preview if you want to save RAM. 



Part 2 – AutoGK:

 Download Link: http://www.autogk.me.uk/modules.php?name=Downloads  Find the folder you just named, open the Video folder and select the .IFO named VTS_01_0.IFOSelect the output destination.  I want the best quality, so I am going to enter 100 in the Target Quality box. 


 AutoGK makes it very easy to select a custom size.  Click Add Job and then Start.  Sit back and relax.Time depends on your CPU and target quality, size, etc.  

Optional Part Three – Videora iPod Converter:

Download Link: http://www.videora.com/en-us/Converter/iPod/

 Choose your iPod type. It also gives you a conversion guide using DVD Decrypter if you select the DVD tab on the first page.  Choose Video File and press Convert New File.  The latest version of Videora makes this process incredibility simple.  You can use the Normal Mode or Power Mode depending on how comfortable you feel.  The best quality is usually the one that takes up the most space.  The best code an iPod can recognize is x246.  Once completed, just locate the converted file and drag into your iTunes Library.  Update your iPod and enjoy!